Hội An: Past the Lanterns, Into the Real Town

There's a version of Hội An that appears on every 'best places in Vietnam' list: the lantern-lit Ancient Town, the yellow-washed merchant houses, the bicycle rides past rice paddies. It's all real and it's all beautiful and it's also absolutely packed from 9am to 8pm with everyone who read the same list.

The city that's worth knowing exists around and beneath the tourist infrastructure. The old town's buildings aren't a set — they're functional spaces that have been used continuously since the 17th century, when Hội An was one of the most important trading ports in Southeast Asia. The Japanese Covered Bridge was built by the Japanese merchant community in 1593. The Chinese Assembly Halls were built by different regional Chinese communities over two centuries. Reading the history of who built what and why makes the architecture make sense in a way that no amount of photography can.

The tailoring culture is genuine. Hội An has been producing custom clothing for centuries, and the best tailors are extraordinarily skilled and remarkably affordable. This is worth taking seriously as a reason to visit: bring references, take measurements seriously, allow two to three days for proper fittings.

Cẩm An beach, five kilometers from the old town, is where the actual Hội An residents go. An Bàng beach has developed a laid-back beach bar culture that's a world away from Da Nang's resort strip. The rice fields and villages between the coast and the old town are bicycle distance, empty by mid-morning, and contain the market gardens and herb farms that supply the town's extraordinary food.